World of Carnivores

Carnivorous Plant Pests & Disease

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Even though carnivorous plants eat bugs some bugs can harm them. You can use Malathion or Orthene. Orthene generally works better because it is absorbed by the plants and provides long lasting protection. Mix and apply as directed. Both products should be readily available at most lawn and garden stores. Most products are fine to use. Just stay away from copper and soap based products and don't use aerosols. Pests can sometimes be eradicated by placing flea collars close to infected pots or containers. Or by placing the infected plants in bags with flea collars. Do not let the flea collar come in contact with the water saucer, water or soil.

The most common pests of Carnivorous Plants are:

Aphids - These can be brown, yellow, green, red or black. They have soft bodies and are most often wingless, though some can poses wings. They generally wont run away when you are trying to find them and are usually in groups. They feed on the plant juices by sucking them out, damaging the leaves. Leaves can become twisted and deformed. Often you can find white skin casting laying about the soil or crowns of plants. They also leave drops of honeydew, ants love it. Treat fast and aggressive.

A, adult sexual female
B, adult male
C, young female
D, female laying an egg
E, eggs, which turn from green
to black after they are laid


Fungus Gnats - Gnats are actually members of the fly families. They are very small and live in damp soil. It will be very hard to keep these out of carnivorous plant soil all the time. They make great sundew food. :-) Rarely a threat to plant health but in large populations the larvae can damage plant roots. Easily eradicated.


Mealybug - Female mealybug are soft bodied white fuzzy little things, around an 1/8" long or so. The females are the ones that do the most damage, they are sap sucking insects like the aphids. Male mealybugs have red ant like bodies and gnat like wings capable of flight. These can be difficult to eradicate. Treat with a systemic insecticide at the first sign, repeat after 30 days. Most of the time they are easy to spot upon inspection of plant parts, make sure to look at the underside of leaves and around bulbs.


Scale - These are tiny hard bodied brown to tan insects that move very little, once attached they generally don't move at all. Often resembling a snake scale. Rarely causes death but without treatment they can kill. Symptoms are generally slowed stunted growth. Most of the insecticides for these are soap or oil based, stay away from them. Treat at first sign and again after 30 days. These can be very difficult to eradicate, saturate the plant and soil well making sure to get the back sides of leaves and all of the plant. In slight infestations of one or two plants you can use a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol to dab them off. Not a reliable way though. For serious infestations do a search for Chilocorus nigritus or Lindorus lophanthae, natural predators.


Spider Mite - Extremely tiny, usually looks like small red or green moving dots. As the name suggests these are members of the arachnid family and they do produce a faint webbing. Often you notice the webbing before them, especially on the soil surface after misting. Phytoseiulus persimilis can be used as a natural preditor, as can lady bugs. Sometimes the lady bugs work, sometimes they are ate by the plants too fast. Easily taken care of with an insecticide though.


Thrips - Thrips are very tiny long bodied white, yellow or brown bugs. They can fly but not well and have feather like wings. They eat the surface of leaves as they move along sometimes carving silvery ditches. You will probably notice their damage or there greenish black droppings. You should treat at the first sign and re-treat every 5 days until you are sure they are gone. Thrips are bad news because they can move out of harms way only to return when its safe.
There are natural preditors to most pests.
Some are worth using if you want to find them. Ladybugs work great but they can turn victim easily. A little research will turn up lots of options. Otherwise just use a good insecticide as described above that lists the kind of critter you need to kill. For natural predators I order from here: www.naturescontrol.com


You should also be on the lookout for common diseases.

Black Spot - This is typically a flytrap problem. Black spots will form on the leaves. The spots will spread until the leaves are covered and rotten.

Rust Spot - This is typically a Nepenthes problem. It will cause reddish-orange spots on the leaves.

Damp off fungas - This mainly happens to seeds just as they star to germinate. It can also attack some Sundews. It looks like a gray fuzzy mold. It will attack when the humidity is high with low light and stagnant air.

Slime Mold - The name is very fitting. It can grow on the soil surface and looks like a green oozy puddle of slime. Simply scrape it off the surface and replace soil as needed.

Sooty Mold - This looks like black soot, or little black dots. It can cover all or part of the plant. It washes off easily. It doesn't really harm the plant but can be rather ugly. It may be a sign that Scale or Mealybugs are present.

All of these can be treated with a fungicide. Captain works great without ill-effect, as does most others. I like captain because it can be used as a powder, paste or spray. Just stay away from the copper, soap, aerosol products like above. Check at local lawn and garden centers for hordes of options.

You should also get in the habit of sterilizing pots after each use. Sterilize your tools between plants too. You can use a 5% bleach mix or physon 20. I like using the physon 20 for tools because it does not harm the plants like bleach will. You should always treat your scissors one way or the other before any cuts are made.

Check out the forum for more info and help.