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Drosera Propagation
"Sundew"

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Most Sundews are very very easy to propagate. No matter what method you are using damp off fungus could become a problem. Treat with a light dusting/misting of fungicide if necessary.

Division

Most Sundews (Drosera) will grow new plants from their roots, dying leaves or it may split at the base. Division is when you separate new growths, whatever type they may be.

Almost always you will have to un-pot the Sundew. Once the Sundew is out and the dirt rinsed from the roots you can divide them. You want to wait until the new growth has some roots of its own. So long as both plants have roots after separation it should go well. Be careful of new roots, they are very delicate. Always soak root areas on all plants in SuperThrive before re-planting.

Division is the best method for Tuberous Sundews. Sometimes they will send out stolons that will make more tubers.


Cuttings
Cuttings do not work for Drosera regia, Drosera burmanni, pygmy Sundews, or most tuberous Sundews.

Two types of cuttings work very well for the Drosera Family. Both methods produce mature Sundews in a short period. Since both methods are done in high humidity the plantlets produced must be acclimated before setting in open air. I like to acclimate them in the propagation containers so they are ready for open air after potting.

Drosera Leaf Cuttings - Cut off the leaves you want to use as close to the base as you comfortably can. Most of the leaves are fair game, just don't take the upper newly formed leaves or you may harm the plant. I wouldn't take more than one or two leaves per plant either. Lay the leaves tentacle side up making sure all of the bottom is in contact with the media. Long leaves such as forked sundews, etc can be cut into two inch sections. The media can be a peat/sand mix, peat/perlite mix, long fiber sphagnum, or milled sphagnum. I use 70% peat 30% perlite or lfsm for almost all of my leaf cuttings. Keep the Drosera leaf cuttings in high humidity and in a few weeks each leaf should produce one to several plantlets. I dip mine in SuperThrive before placing them, but this aids mold growth as well so keep a close eye on them.

As a general rule padded sundews make new plantlets from the pads, first will come plants then roots. I have taken just the pad from a plant and had good results.
With the leafed sundews such as D. Adelae getting the leaf as close to the plant as possible is important. Leafed sundews generally start with roots from the petiole end and then start the plantlet.

Humidity is the key to making this work. High humidity is best created with a propagation container. Propagation containers can be just about anything with a clear lid. Plexiglass over a flower pot will work, or just about any small container with a lid. You don't need a lot of soil to make this work, 1/4" - 1/2" deep is fine. I like using the plastic water trays, 4" - 8" depending on what and how many I am doing. I use one for the bottom to hold the soil and one as a top to keep the humidity high. 60% - 70% humidity is all thats needed, keep the media moist.

Once most of the leaves have produced plantlets and they have three or four leaves you can begin acclamation. After acclamation the Sundews can be moved to their permanent pots. Cut most of the old leaf away from the new plantlets, but don't divide plantlets unless there is plenty of room to do so and each one has its own roots. Be very careful of the tiny roots that should have formed by now. I generally leave around a 1/4" square around their base, sometimes this simply means snipping the stem off of the pad. When you set it in the pot make sure it is in good contact with the soil, I lightly cover the old remaining leaf with a couple pinches of soil using tweezers.

Drosera Root Cuttings - This works with Sundews that have long/thick roots. Unless you have roots growing out from the bottom of a pot you must un-pot your plant. I use an 8" water tray filled with RO water to rinse the dirt off the roots and another smaller water tray holding a SuperThrive mix to soak the roots in. Sundews with small roots may not survive loosing one and probably won't do well with root cuttings anyway.

Once you have the plant out and the roots rinsed cut a root off a couple inches below the plant. I wouldn't take more than one or two roots to a plant. Set the mother plant in the SuperThrive trying to keep the roots in and most of the plant out for 10-15 minutes. Re-pot the mother plant as you normally would.

While the mother Sundew is soaking cut the removed roots into smaller 2 inch sections. Dip these roots in the SuperThrive mix and place in a propagation container with the same medium as for leaves. Just lay them on the soil, no need to bury them. Put a layer of long fiber sphagnum moss over them, 1/2" thick at most. Cover and place the container in bright light (but watch the heat) or within 12" under 2 4' fluorescent bulbs set on for 16 hrs/day. In a few weeks you should have plantlets emerging.

Once the plantlets have 4-6 leaves you can acclimate them then plant them in pots. Gently remove the long fiber sphagnum moss. If you have more than one plantlet growing from a section of root cut the root midway between the plantlets to divide them. Pot normally but be gentle. I dip the roots in a SuperThrive mix before potting.

Drosera Flower Stalk Cuttings - This method works well for some sundews, not so well for others. It's worth a go though because what else are you going to do with it? You can take it at anytime, even after you have collected the flowers if your after the seed too. Treat it the exact same as a leaf cutting.

CLICK HERE FOR THE DROSERA CUTTINGS STEP BY STEP GUIDE
AFTER you finish this page.

Seeds

I always recommend growing seeds in vitro, except sundew seeds. Sundew seed produces mature plants much faster than the rest of the carnivorous plants, often flowering in the first season. They are less prone to fungus/mold attacks too. So standard sowing works well enough, just use sterilized media and treat the media and seeds with a fungicide after sowing. Tissue culture is still best but not worth the hassle if your not already set up for it.

If the seeds are from a Sundew that has a dormancy requirement then they need a wet stratification period before they will grow. This means they must experience a moist cold period before they will germinate. Seed only a few days old and not refrigerated can be sown immediately though. You can achieve stratification in a few different ways.

Place the Sundew seeds in a small zip lock bag with a moist piece of long fiber sphagnum moss and place in the fridge for six weeks.
or

You can wrap them in a moist paper towel, place the paper towel in a plastic bag then place in the fridge for six weeks.

Any technique that results in a cold/moist environment for six weeks will do the trick. I have also used baby food jars to place them in the fridge.

If you do not want to wait the three to four weeks you can use Gibberellic acid. This is my preferred method but Gibberellic acid is generally hard to find and pricey when you do. There is a link to a place that sells Gibberellic acid in the links area if you are interested. I add a 1/4 of a "smidgen" of Gibberellic acid to 2 oz of RO water and soak them in it for roughly 24 hrs. This will keep approximately 2 weeks if stored in the refrigerator. For mixing instructions see the Gibberellic acid information page.

When the seeds are ready spread them sparsely on the growing medium. Do not cover with soil. Humidity helps here too so I start them in a propagation container. Keep the humidity around 50% if you can, too high and they may mold. A 1/2" deep layer of media is plenty. Place the container in bright light or within 12" - 14" under a fluorescent, same as cuttings, set on for 16 hrs/day. Within several weeks they should start to grow. Damp-off fungus may be an issue so use a lite dusting of fungicide if needed, try not to disturb the seed. When they have several leaves the can be removed and placed in pots. Acclimate them before moving and be careful not to damage the tiny roots.



Check your propagation chambers often to ensure they don't dry out. Keep moist at all times.
I make my propagation chambers using clear plastic water trays. Simply use one for the bottom and one for the top. I make the soil very moist and spray the lid with a water bottle mist when they are first made. Small ones like this dry out pretty fast, the chinese container works better.
D. Capillaris leaf cuttings after one week.
Here I have just done root cuttings with D. Adelae leaf cuttings on top. I spray the top with the water bottle then place the container under lighting.
This is four week old root cuttings that I have transferred to a pot. Once the plantlets have a couple leaves and roots started they can be transplanted, carefully.
Drosera Binata Leaf Cuttings







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